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Why are you putting that motor in there and not just the 22re?

But it sounds like it will be a good driver and off-road beater
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm putting it in there for fuel economy, versatility, and for fun really. The 22re was going to cost more than I have in this engine to either replace or rebuild. I wasn't going to throw another craigslist engine in it, that was how I got here in the first place.

Most of these swaps are seeing 30ish mpg mixed and as high as 35 highway. Mix in a tune and you've got 200+ tq at around 1200rpm.
 

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This seems like such an oddball swap for their to be mounts available off the shelf. Crazy.

I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
No mounts available, only the adapter. It's available mainly because of the samurai off-road crowd. Lots of vw diesel swaps into them for the tq they offer. And many use a yota trans so they can run dual transfer cases, and so it was born haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Stock for stock similar. 22re is 100/140. The tdi is 89/149. With a mild tune it's in the 110/175 range, and a hotter tune is upwards of 160/280 ballpark if I remember correctly.
 

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this thing running yet?

#hater/motivator :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
One step at a time haha. Tentative-ish timeframe for up and running/driving is first or second week of march. Still have a ton of stuff to do.

Off the top of my head:

-Finish mounts
-Fab trans mount on crossmember to move it forward
-Run fuel lines
-Intercooler and tubing
-Wire in ecm connections to ignition, engine, speedo, etc.
-Input shaft bearing on trans
-Rear main, oil pan, and valve cover seals, as well as timing belt job on new motor.

I appreciate the motivation, it keeps me going.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
I got some more time yesterday and today to wokr on the truck. Most of the day was spent pulling pieces off the new motor and cleaning out a ridiculous amount of soot buildup. The previous owner apparently didnt drive this thing but a mile or two each way wherever they were going.

Intake manifold inlet @ butterfly


Intake port in head



I got the engine and trans bolted together to see what kind of fitment issues i will run into, and its really not too bad. I either need to drop the front differential 1.5-2", or massage the oil pan and modify the oil pickup tube. I will probably drop the differential due to the torsion bars being cranked up a few turns.



As you can see, there is plenty of room for any plumbing, coolers, fans, etc in front of the engine. Much shorter than the 22re.


This is why i need to move the engine and trans forward about 2.5". There appears to be more room than there actually is. Moving the engine/trans to factory position leaves 1/2" between the outlet and firewall.

The rear coolant port also houses three coolant heater plugs, gotta love quick heat in the winter.. People have gotten away with modifying the outlet elbowand see about 1/3" clearance, but I'd like more than 1/3" between my firewall and coolant hose personally. It will be worth it to move it forward, not much more work since im already fabricating my own mounts.
 

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I got some more time yesterday and today to wokr on the truck. Most of the day was spent pulling pieces off the new motor and cleaning out a ridiculous amount of soot buildup. The previous owner apparently didnt drive this thing but a mile or two each way wherever they were going.

Intake manifold inlet @ butterfly


Intake port in head



I got the engine and trans bolted together to see what kind of fitment issues i will run into, and its really not too bad. I either need to drop the front differential 1.5-2", or massage the oil pan and modify the oil pickup tube. I will probably drop the differential due to the torsion bars being cranked up a few turns.



As you can see, there is plenty of room for any plumbing, coolers, fans, etc in front of the engine. Much shorter than the 22re.


This is why i need to move the engine and trans forward about 2.5". There appears to be more room than there actually is. Moving the engine/trans to factory position leaves 1/2" between the outlet and firewall.

The rear coolant port also houses three coolant heater plugs, gotta love quick heat in the winter.. People have gotten away with modifying the outlet elbowand see about 1/3" clearance, but I'd like more than 1/3" between my firewall and coolant hose personally. It will be worth it to move it forward, not much more work since im already fabricating my own mounts.
I'm not sure why, but it's always oddly satisfying to clean something like that. That's the worst buildup I have ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Got some time today to work on the mounts some more. The hardest part was figuring out where to put the driver side mount. Kind of a pain, but I think i've got a good spot for it. I went with 3/16" because I have to leave one side open to access the bolt on the underside of the mount. Anyway, here's what i've got.
Driver side


passenger side


The bottom tab coming off the bottom will be removed to fit it higher up on the original mount. The mounts obviously will sit on the top side of these.

Also, notched out the pan and reloacted the drain plug to the "new" rear side of the pan. The pickup tube wouldnt allow the notch, so I put an angle on it to move it about an 1.5".

Before



After




All i've got for today. I'm bringing a welder home tomorrow to weld up the mounts to the frame, fabricate the transmission mount and weld it in. Maybe patch the rear fram if I have the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks, it looks like everything will fit with a good amount of clearance. I got the mounts welded to the frame today. Also completed what will hopefully be the final assembly of the engine and trans with a new oe clutch. I'll be on shift tomorrow, so hopefully I'll have the engine side of the mounts made and everything sitting in its final resting place by the end of the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I've had very little time to work on the truck, but I have managed to get some stuff done when I could find a minute. I got to use the shop at my old work again, gotta love having an awesome guy as a former boss.

I cut the intake manifold in half, eliminating the egr all together, and welded in a 2 1/4" aluminum tube that I put a heavy angle cut on to make it as low porfile as possible. It clears the hood, where before it did not.



This is the top half... That pencil ish size dark spot us the only opening in the from the manifold inlet.. This is why we eliminate egr.. jesus.




Also got the engine mounts for the engine side of things finished, they are probably way overkill for what i'm doing, but they'll do for sure.

Driver side




Passenger side

 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
The passenger side mount is two pieces against the block because the mounting holes aren't the same level or angle. Looks shitty, but it has a third vertical support in the center of the mount. They are all 3/16" steel.

Also, my remote oil filter setup seemed to have a common fault among the online community. The NPT threads seem to leak pretty bad, so I took care of that before I had the problem.



And lastly, I got my trail gear driveline spacer in. Moving the engine and trans forward put the rear driveshaft at its max extension.

 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Sorry for no updates lately. I didnt give up or forget, I got t-boned in my mom's vehicle I happened to be driving.. It was my transportation while I saved some down payment for a new vehicle, so I was forced to make a purchase.. I ended up picking up a 2014 Focus ST. I'm in love with it so far.

Anyway. On to what you're here to see..

Ive made some decent progress I think. Obviously the engine is in, trans and all bolted up. Radiator and intercooler are in, nust need to make two retaining clips for the top to hold it upright. I drew up a basic program in solidworks and sent it to the guys at metal supermarkets to cut on their cnc plasma table. They happened to have a diamond plate piece of aluminum in the remnant section. Wasn't upset to spend the 30$. Also, most of the cooling hoses are about finished. I ended up retaining the oil cooler for ease of lower hose routing and I figure that the engine will be working a bit harder in the truck, so it wuldnt be a bad idea.




I used some factory mounts, flipped them, and welded a new piece of flat steel to mount the radiator and intercooler on.


I modified the trans crossmember to move the mount forward 3", and ran into a problem i should have seen before, but did not. The transfer case sits on the crossmember now. I'll be pulling it back off, reinforcing the new mount, and notching the crossmember to clearance the transfer case.



Next problem I had to address was the rusted out fuel lines.. I ended up using brass fittings and brake lines with two copper washers to sandwich the original fuel pump mounting plate. Then attached the brake lines to the underside as draw tubes. Also drained the fuel tank. Not to self, gasoline tastes aweful. No matter how cool it looks, kids, do not siphon fuel using your mouth.



And with hoses and pump nearly complete.


And last for the day, I started on the downpipe. Its almost finished, just needs a flange on the end and some -alot of- heat wrap. Keeing true to toyota stock appearance as much as possible, I decided to route it behind the engine and down the factory location. There's about a half inch clearance between the firewall and downpipe and a little less in the front. I may bend the oil feed line to the turbo and move the downpipe forward just a bit to avoid heat on the firewall as much as possible.




And where it comes down on the driver side. It looks alot tighter than it is.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Also, the driveline spacer didn't fit right. I ended up turning the opening for the driveshaft out about a mm. It fits like a glove now.
 
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