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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figure i would start a thread that has the potential to be really good if some of the more experienced racers on the board chime in. the purpose of this thread is to detail simple and quick mods and adjustments to make to your RWD car when you take it to the track to improve your time slips.


from supraforums member outofstep, i have edited it to make it more generalized


Concepts:
When you launch your car from a stop there are two main things going on. Transfer of weight from the front to the rear and then hooking. If you want a better launch, you need to optimize both of these.




Manual Transmission specific section:

Working the Clutch:

Most of the time, launching at the track is just like regular driving. The speed that you release the clutch pedal during normal driving, is the same speed you release it while launching at the track. Thinking you have to rev and then just dump the clutch is why people sit and spin or bog. Bring your revs up high, and release the clutch the same speed as if you were easing away from a stop light. This works with most clutch setups. But like I said earlier, get to know how your car launches. You should know how to work your clutch for good launches before you ever goto the track.

Boost from the line:
Boosted Manual cars have a big disadvantage at the track. No boost from the line. This is easy to cure. It’s called a two-step, or rev limiter. You step on the gas and the two-step will artificially limit your revs at a lower level (you usually set this at your launch rpm. You should know your launch rpm because you have practiced and know what works). This loads the engine and you will get boost. Launch and shut off the two step. There you go, manual car with boost from the line. It can mean the difference between starting out with over a hundred or more horsepower from a turbo that’s actually spooled up.

If you are serious about dragging with a manual, you need to get a rev limiter/two step.



Automatic transmission specific section
Stall, Stall, Stall. Get a high stall torque converter. This is standard practice for EVERYONE IN THE WORLD but us it seems like. I can count on one hand the auto guys on this forum that have a stall. That’s sad as hell. For 200 bucks people cant be bothered to get something that can potential drop their quarter mile time by almost a full second.

Suspension set up:

Sway bar / End links:
I keep saying this but people aren’t listening. When at the track, disconnect the front sway bars. This goes back to the original concept that I talked about earlier. Transfer of weight to the rear of the vehicle. With the front sway bar disconnected it allows freer movement of the front suspension. Lets weight shift occur easier. Disconnecting the front sway bar is de facto standard in pretty much most auto enthusiast groups aside from the moron import crowd.

Don’t drive to the track with them disconnected though. That wont be fun. Also before you do this at the track, disconnect them once or twice and drive around your neighborhood to get a feel for what its like with them off. You don’t want to get squirrelly down the track your first time with them off. Know how it drives.

With adjustable end links it’s makes unattaching the front bar a breeze. Just disconnect the lower tie on the tie bar. It also allows you to adjust your rear sway bar to fine tune your launch. There are one or two places that sell them I think. Or you can just make your own. I made my own as seen below:



Camber:
If you dropped your car, you now more than likely have negative camber. When you launch an IRS car, the camber moves to the negative. If you are already there, launching just makes your tires have a small little contact patch. This is a big reason why you dropped folks launch so shitty. Yeah your JDM dorifto million degrees of negative camber crap looks cool (to you), but it sucks for launching. Dial in a degree or two of positive camber before you go to the track. When you launch you ideally want zero camber, a flat contact patch. So if you are just a degree or two positive before you launch, when it squats you zero out. Perfect.

Shocks/springs/coilovers
This is really something you just need to adjust and test for yourself. For some people hard front soft rear works better for them, for others vice versa. There are just too many different combos to tell you exactly what to do. I will tell you not to go full hard all around. It goes back to the original concept. You want weight to be able to shift to the back, then you want to hook.

Try starting out with the front abit harder than the rear. Then work from there. If you mess with the ride height, make sure you adjust the camber.
one thing not addressed explicitly in this post is tires. since most of us will be running on the strip with high performance street tires it is important to know what to do to help your 60 ft times. dropping rear tire pressure can make a world of difference in traction on street tires, to a point. dropping them to much can hurt. ill let someone else chime in on their pressure they use. also running higher front tire pressure can reduce rolling resistance but this does not make a massive difference.

the key is really to get off the line clean with little to no wheel spin and to not bog the car. from then on its just hitting your shifts.

if anyone has other tips or tricks please post them, espeically if you have solid recommended tire pressure on various street tires, azenis, bfg TAs etc.
 

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Surprised no one has mentioned things you can do to prep the tires. I once was able to cut a 1.72 60 foot on BFG Radials. Not drag radials, real street tires.

Bleach- Bleach helps soften/break down the compound of the tire. If you can spray down the tire, 3-4 times a day for a week prior to going to the track it will definitely improve traction.

Summit/Jegs sells a compound called drag tire treatment. I think it works on the same principle, helps condition tires for use at the track. It definitely helps soften older slicks.

At the track get the tires hot. When you do your burnout prior to staging do your burnout in one spot and let the heat build up in the tires. Rolling burnouts do next to nothing other than clean off the tire.

A line lock is a great investment. A line lock allows you to lock up only the front brakes, so you can do the burnout easier and not wear out your rear brakes. If your car is an auto, that also allows you to have more holding power at the line. Obviously if you have a manual transmission it makes it soo much easier than trying to do the sidestep of the brake pedal. You can even use a line lick to hold the rear brakes if your car is a FWD.

Anything you can do to help weight transfer is important. You want as much downward pressure on the rear axle as possible to prevent wheelspin and tirehop. When you go to the track, remove your front swaybar. It takes weight off the front end and allows for more suspension travel and more weight transfer.
 

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da juice was worth da squeeze
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Surprised no one has mentioned things you can do to prep the tires. I once was able to cut a 1.72 60 foot on BFG Radials. Not drag radials, real street tires.

I cut a 1.69 on all seasons in my white Evo.
 

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Lamar Sandwiches Now!
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well my shity has 315's spin at 60, the way to go is a drag radial. Street tires just suck for any kind of racing..

unless your one of those lucky awd cars, or stock-slow cars
 

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da juice was worth da squeeze
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well my shity has 315's spin at 60, the way to go is a drag radial. Street tires just suck for any kind of racing..

unless your one of those lucky awd cars, or stock-slow cars
Haha I fall under the stock slow cars category...:loco:
 

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Beaters gonna beat
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how about 90% of street tire compounds don't work half as well when heated?


On street tires, the only "burnouts" you should be doing while staging are to clean the tires off if they have any nasty-ness on them, and even then, street tires dont pick up half the shit that slicks/DR's do. Unless you are fucking with some real slicks, burnouts should only be used to clean tires IMHO.

-Drew
 

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baddest motherfucker alive
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elborate please what information is not correct.
ok

Most of the time, launching at the track is just like regular driving. The speed that you release the clutch pedal during normal driving, is the same speed you release it while launching at the track.
wrong

Boosted Manual cars have a big disadvantage at the track..
wrong

If you are serious about dragging with a manual, you need to get a rev limiter/two step.
wrong

Don’t drive to the track with them disconnected though. That wont be fun.
wrong. i threw may sway bars in the scrap pile the first week i had my car. it's not even noticable that they've been removed unless you drive like a jackass

adjust your rear sway bar to fine tune your launch..
wrong. rear swaybar doesn't have anything to do with launching but an anti-roll bar does though

solid recommended tire pressure on various street tires, azenis, bfg TAs etc..
no such thing. every car will react differently to different pressures
 

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baddest motherfucker alive
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Bleach- Bleach helps soften/break down the compound of the tire. If you can spray down the tire, 3-4 times a day for a week prior to going to the track it will definitely improve traction.
At the track get the tires hot. When you do your burnout prior to staging do your burnout in one spot and let the heat build up in the tires. Rolling burnouts do next to nothing other than clean off the tire.
absolutely wrong
 

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You say wrong, but for most of them you don't have a rebuttal.
 

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I was just planning on putting some new wheels and and a new exhaust tip, expecting to get some low 8's.





NOT
 

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wrong. i threw may sway bars in the scrap pile the first week i had my car. it's not even noticable that they've been removed unless you drive like a jackass
I guess in a foxbody it doesnt matter how much body roll you have they just plain always handle like ass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
how about 90% of street tire compounds don't work half as well when heated?


On street tires, the only "burnouts" you should be doing while staging are to clean the tires off if they have any nasty-ness on them, and even then, street tires dont pick up half the shit that slicks/DR's do. Unless you are fucking with some real slicks, burnouts should only be used to clean tires IMHO.

-Drew
like i said what i posted was not written by me however

street tires coefficent of friction increases dramatically with temperature. while the valley doesnt like people on street tires to do burnouts im just saying that the tire works better warmer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by supraguru View Post
Most of the time, launching at the track is just like regular driving. The speed that you release the clutch pedal during normal driving, is the same speed you release it while launching at the track.

what i was trying to say was if you dump the clutch or try to release it much faster than you do on the street your going to sit and spin or bog.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraguru View Post
Boosted Manual cars have a big disadvantage at the track..

shift times alone make a automatic better than a manual. you cant debate that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraguru View Post
If you are serious about dragging with a manual, you need to get a rev limiter/two step.

a rev limiter/ two step helps a manual by making you only concerned about the clutch pedal not the gas pedal as well. it will help, but is not necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraguru View Post
Don’t drive to the track with them disconnected though. That wont be fun.
wrong. i threw may sway bars in the scrap pile the first week i had my car. it's not even noticable that they've been removed unless you drive like a jackass

im trying to keep people from getting hurt. if a person in a slammed 240 takes their sway bars out and goes out there and gets sideways they will end up in the wall. there is no reason not to try it out before you go to the track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraguru View Post
adjust your rear sway bar to fine tune your launch..
wrong. rear swaybar doesn't have anything to do with launching but an anti-roll bar does though

o look at deep vehicle dynamics knowledge. i said sway bar which is commonly interchanged with anti roll bar, maybe we should all stop saying intercooler and say aftercooler since thats what it is to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by supraguru View Post
solid recommended tire pressure on various street tires, azenis, bfg TAs etc..
no such thing. every car will react differently to different pressures

except for the fact that for a given normal load and temperature there is a best pressure for the highest friction. car type matters to a degree but so does track condition and others. round about numbers will be ok. just like at autocross if someone asks me what tire pressure to run their tires at i can get them withen 2-5 psi of where they should be.


i tried to make a thread to help people run better at the track. calm down and try to help instead of just saying wrong
 
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