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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the need of a new 12'' sub for the old lady's ford focus sedan. Her system consists of a pioneer head unit and the factory mids and high's in the quote premium sound package (lol) and a rockford fosgate 250.2 with a RF wiring kit in 4gauge. I beleive the birth sheet stated 316 watts rms in one channel at 4 ohms bridged. The amp has a adjustable x-over. And the box is a 1.5 cu. ft sealed unit. ------------Ok her last sub was a power acoustik FUBR 12'' rated and some ungodly wattage like 1500rms. And it lasted 3 years with daily beatings listening to rap and rock. Then the coils gave out and i replaced it with a MA audio ma12oxe rated at 400rms and 800 max. And it lasted 8 days total. So my question is could someone recommend a good sub the will hold up and maybe some advice on amp settings such as HZ- gains-etc. Thanks alot
 

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money was my first question. but i will advise a RF P2, or a Kicker Comp VR. I have a Kicker L7 in a 3.25 cubic feet box (for sale), and it hits deep, but you could go with a sealed box at .88 cubic feet. All depends on what RMS you are looking for.
 

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i forgot the second part of your question. so. if you like the bass hitting low low, go with the lowest Hz that both your HU and amp can put out and get a box for that frequency. If you like more hip stuff I would go with a 80 or 100hz. as far as gain. i have been told to have it all the way up (without distortion), right before your highs and mids start clipping.
in other words, turn your radio up until you hear distortion, then turn it down a little. then go to your amp and turn the gain up till it clips, and then turn it down a little. and wallah you are set.
 

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+2 For the Comp VR. Just got one for my truck. Love it!! Well mine is a 10 but any size sounds great with the right amp.
 

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The alpine type e do good with that. I work at Best Buy and I run the P300 which is a little bigger then that and they sound good. Type E dont take that much watts to sound good. And the kenwood KFC W3011 sound good to with that amp but would really need a little more since there 400 watts RMS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry for the slow reply but I guess lets say 150 is the budget. And could someone please describe what clipping is and what it sounds like. I always thought that it was etheir when the subs cone was bottoming out on the bump plate. Or just when you start hearing distorsion. Please do not take to much concern in the budget cause things can allways change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks alot ---is this pretty much the best sub in the price range or is there others that are equal in quality. And also is there anyway you could tell me what to set my amp at as far as HZ and bass boost and gains.
 

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i already told you. the lower the Hz the deeper the bass. the more bass boost the louder its going to be. gain is pretty much the same as bass boost, only it can cause clipping. keep everything on low, and then move the gain and bass boost up until you cant take any more bass or you start hearing clipping.
 

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gain is pretty much the same as bass boost, only it can cause clipping.
:ugh3: disinformation at its best. Both bass boost and gain can cause signal clipping in conjunction witht the preamp signal input from your head unit. All three items have a part to play in that situation.

The gain knob on your amp is for turning signal output up for all of the fequency bandwidth (20-20,000 hz) at once.

The Bass Boost knob on your amp is for turning gain up at a specific fequency. Alot of amps have their gain fequency set at 45 hz (for example) ... when you turn the bass boost knob up, you're just accentuating that fequency's gain. Think of it as you hooking up a home amplifier to a home equalizer with all fequencies set on flat. Turn up the amp half way and the music is fairly loud....but walk over to the equalizer and turn up the 45 hz band up to +5 or so and see what happens. this is essentially turning up your bass boost..... bad example perhaps but I hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So basically install this sub. With the sub off turn the volume up on my head unit until the factory speakers clip/distort and then lower the volume until the distortion goes away. Then turn the sub on and start turning up the gain until it clips/distorts and if it does not at the HZ that I like then turn up the bass boost until it clips and then lower until distortion/clipping goes away. --------Is that right or am I more confused than i started.-----------------------------thanks for the help.
 

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the lower the Hz the deeper the bass.
This might help explain this for the guy.

Above is a 1/3 octave graphic eq (well a plug-in for digital stuff)

Lows are on the left, highs are on the right.

the more bass boost the louder its going to be. gain is pretty much the same as bass boost, only it can cause clipping.
What?
 

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So basically install this sub. With the sub off turn the volume up on my head unit until the factory speakers clip/distort and then lower the volume until the distortion goes away. Then turn the sub on and start turning up the gain until it clips/distorts and if it does not at the HZ that I like then turn up the bass boost until it clips and then lower until distortion/clipping goes away. --------Is that right or am I more confused than i started.-----------------------------thanks for the help.
thats what i am saying. i havent seen bass boost cause distortion, but i guess it could. I would say turn the bass boost all the way up on your amp and then mess with your gain. If you have a remote bass knob, keep it down while messing with your gain.

Snoopdan. i dont think greenlight knows enough about frequencies to term it like you did, so i didnt want to get all technical. but what you said was correct.
 

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http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...ead.php?p=530230#post530230242D+-TYPE+R-.html

There ya go. Solid cheap budget sub.

As far as your question, clipping/distortion has many faces. If you're experiening the coil slamming into back the of the bump plate then you're clearly reached it.
That type r will barely be heard on that amp. Those Type R'S are power hungry subs. Rockford Fosgate P-1000D barely does the job but, it would sound better on a JL slasher 500-1 or even 1000-1. Just my opinion. I know that the Type R sound good but still a little overated to me.
 

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That type r will barely be heard on that amp. Those Type R'S are power hungry subs. Rockford Fosgate P-1000D barely does the job but, it would sound better on a JL slasher 500-1 or even 1000-1. Just my opinion. I know that the Type R sound good but still a little overated to me.
If you re-read what the original poster listed in his first post, he already has a MA audio MA12OXE amp, so why bother suggesting an amp to him if he already has one? He just asked about what sub to put with it, which is why I suggested the Alpine R, since for that size of amp he currently owns it would probably last him a long while since he's no where near max wattage for both coils on the driver. His original problem was sub's blowing, not trying to get all he can get out of one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My amp is a 316watt rms RF 250.2. You probably just made a little typo there^. But i just wanted to make sure that the type-r will still hold up for a while with the small RF amp i have. thanks alot for the help so far------Another question i have is my amp is NOT stable at a 2ohm load in bridged configuration or so it says in the booklet. But i had it hooked up bridged and wired to the 12'' power acoustic 2ohm coil and it lasted for 3yrs. Before the coil gave out. So what happens to a amp if you push it in a unstable load. I know usually they will blow or go into protection but this one did neither.
 

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If you re-read what the original poster listed in his first post, he already has a MA audio MA12OXE amp, so why bother suggesting an amp to him if he already has one? He just asked about what sub to put with it, which is why I suggested the Alpine R, since for that size of amp he currently owns it would probably last him a long while since he's no where near max wattage for both coils on the driver. His original problem was sub's blowing, not trying to get all he can get out of one.
Maybe you need to re-read it sir. Skip the second grade dick?
 

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My amp is a 316watt rms RF 250.2. You probably just made a little typo there^. But i just wanted to make sure that the type-r will still hold up for a while with the small RF amp i have. thanks alot for the help so far------Another question i have is my amp is NOT stable at a 2ohm load in bridged configuration or so it says in the booklet. But i had it hooked up bridged and wired to the 12'' power acoustic 2ohm coil and it lasted for 3yrs. Before the coil gave out. So what happens to a amp if you push it in a unstable load. I know usually they will blow or go into protection but this one did neither.
This is most likely due to the impedience rise in relation to the enclosure you're using. The coil in your old sub probably just failed over time probably due to structurial/mechanical failure and not because of input power. I think you definately got your money's worth with it.

Maybe you need to re-read it sir. Skip the second grade dick?
I made a mistake on the amp/sub, but being a dick to me still has nothing to do with your suggestion of a new amp when all he was asking for was help with his old one. Im sorry if you have e-anger issues.
 
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